I dont know if I have done a thorough job of explaining the
transportation in Ghana. The most common form of transportation is the trotro,
which is a small van with a sliding door. There are usually three rows of seats
behind the front seat. The back row is solid seats but in the other two rows
the aisle seat flips up so that you can walk there, in Ghana they call it a
jump seat, probably because whenever you go over a bump it tilts a bit and you
jump. Trotros have a driver and a mate that operate the car. Cars in Ghana are
called lorrys. The lorry station is filled with trotros, and all the mates are
working hard to collect people to fill their tro. They ask every person who
passes by where they are going, or they will simply shout over and over again
where they are going. They can sometimes be pretty aggressive about it, because
the faster they fill up the tro, the sooner they can leave. People can pay
extra if they have something to load into the back of the tro. Things to be
loaded range anywhere from huge bags of cassava, suitcases, goats, bicycles,
plantains...anything. Sometimes in the lorry station you can pay and get a
ticket to wherever you are going, but most of the time you just sit in the car
until it fills. Once they have two people in the front (not including the
driver) and four people in every row (not including the mate) they will leave,
although sometimes they dont make it that full. Sometimes they make it so full
that the mate is pretty much squat/standing until someone gets out of the tro.
The mate will collect money from everyone depending on where they are going,
and some tros charge more than others so sometimes its hard to tell when you
are being cheated. The way I have found to keep from getting cheated is ask the
mate how much it costs where other Ghanaians can hear his answer. Ghanaians do
not like to see foreigners cheated. Then whenever you want to get off you tell the mate and he tells the driver to
stop. If you arent at the lorry station you can flag down any tro with an open
seat that is going in the direction you want to go. For me personally, I am
lucky because my house is located right next to a road where plenty of tros
pass every day. Some days, like sunday, the tros are less frequent but they
still come.
The tros are supposed to pass inspection, and there are
police checkpoints to check that the tros are up to date. However instead of
checking the vehicles, the police will let you pass through if you give them a
cedi or two bribe. So I have been here for five months and not once have I seen
a car not pass “inspection”, but I have seen countless drivers as their mate
for a cedi as we approach the checkpoint, and sneakily stick it into their
registration card so that when the police open the card the money slips into
their pocket. So tros do not make me feel safe ever. One time we hit the car in front of us and my knee slammed into the jumpseat in front of me so bad that I was bleeding. Now I have a scar.
If you want to pay more you can hire a taxi. They will drive
past you on the road depending on where you are, or if you have the phone
number of a taxi driver you can call them.
Also people have motos, bicycles, and they walk places. Then
there is the metromass bus that is a huge bus that I havent used yet so I cant
say much about it.
Concerning me:
I got a cat. Its name is Kitty because I couldnt think of
anything that fit. Ive never had a cat of my own before so it was a little
annoying at first because I think I was trying to train it like a dog. It was
meowing all the time and I wasnt sure what to do so I gave it whatever I
thought of to make it shut up but I think I might have spoiled it. Now it
thinks if it meows enough I will give it fish and milk. But today it peed in my
room so I will no longer let it come in there because cat pee is just about the
worst smell ever. And I am speaking as someone whose toilet is a hole in the
ground. Fortunately I used the Ghanaian method of cleaning up poop and pee. I
have seen this method used for cleaning up baby poop, baby pee, chicken feces
on the veranda, and throw up. So here is
what they do; they take a scoopful of dirt, put it over the mess, and then
sweep it up. It works swimmingly. It is just like how you clean up spilled
mercury in chemistry lab, by pouring kitty litter over the mercury and then
sweeping it up. Other than making me angry today my cat usually makes me happy
because sometimes it likes to cuddle and I like to hear it purr.
As for the rainy season update; the rains still havent come
full force but some small rains have come. I am interested to see how things
change with people's daily routines when the rains come full force. I think
many of them are waiting for the rains to soften the ground so they can start
planting. Right now the ground is hard. My father of course has already
transplanted many of his chilli peppers and has been watering them. He is a
very hard worker and is always busy. I have helped him some in the process by
working on the nursery, doing some weeding. Then a couple times I helped fetch
water to water the seedlings. That was quite the chore. We fetched the water
from the river which is semi close, but the river has dried up because it is
dry season. The remaining water was seriously disgusting death water. One time
I fetched water until I couldnt lift the bucket down from my head without
spilling it everywhere. My arms were exhausted and I couldnt feel my hands. How
else am I supposed to get strong though? Then we water each seedling, I think
they are spaced about a foot apart. We use a tin can and a bucket. It is a lot
of bending over work which hurts my back but I always stay until my father
tells me to go.
I have been riding my bike everywhere and my legs are
getting stronger which is awesome. People like to see me riding my bike I
think. The only bad part is that the seat is a little too high for me so when I
stop to talk to people there is just no graceful way to do it. I either lean a
lot, on tippy toes, or just get off the bike altogether. Ghanaians are often
too short for their bikes and their method is to stand over the bike in front
of the seat but I havent quite mastered that one yet.
Sometimes I forget where I am and everything I left behind.
My concerns are so simple these days. Spending time with people. Going to
market. Washing my clothes. Watching the sky for rain.
Sometimes I get cravings but it seems like having those
things again is so far away that I almost dont crave anything anymore. I would
kill for a nice cold IPA...I would kill a bug. Im not ready for killing
chickens yet. My counterpart killed one yesterday and I watched the entire
process and butchering and was slightly disgusted to see that we put almost
everything into the soup. I wasnt as grossed out as I feel like a previous
Nancy would have been, but im still not jumping to do cut a chicken up on my
own. When we make light soup with chicken....MMMM it is so good. I eat all. I even
drink the soup. It isnt often we eat chicken.
Sometimes I hear what sounds like fireworks and it is people
burning their land. I think the fireworks sound comes from bamboo. Honestly you
can see fires everywhere around here. It is just easier than using a cutlass to
weed all of your land. Ive done so many papers in school on slash and burn
agriculture but then when you are actually here how can you make people change?
They already know its not the best. Its not good for the land but also
sometimes the fires get out of control and spread to other people's farms where
they havent finished harvesting their corn yet. People know its not good but
they still do it.
Nancy -
ReplyDeleteSorry to hear that the tro inspections are shady and that you hurt your knee... That sounds about sketchy as f*$%. It seems as though the political system is alive and well nearly everywhere in the world - haha.
It's great to hear that you have a new budddy - Kitty. I was wondering how long it would be until you got a pet. We just recently got a yellow bellied slider (turtle) and named him Scooter. Each individual plate on a turtle's back is referred to as a "scoot", hence the name.
I only wish my life was as "simple" at the moment, if you could call your life that at the moment. Although I can't say that I blame you for not wanting to butcher animals yet - haha. You have no idea how much I wish I could join you and only worry about communication, going to market, etc. I just recently got bumped up to the PhD level and should have two journal articles out by the end of the year - keep a lookout for them. They should be boring as f*$%, like all journal articles are, but they will have my name on them so of course they'll be excellent - haha, please note the sarcasm.
I don't think anyone has the answer to your questions, yet. If they did the world would be a far better place and everything would be "perfect" - haha. I don't necessarily think that your problem is "how to change people", that is impossible, especially since you mentioned that they already know the cons of slash&burn agriculture. Your problem seems to be "how to introduce cost/time effective methods that are easily adaptable to multiple crops". I think you are more than capable to do that (no sarcasm here).
Peace and love,
Prost,
Stan